How Michelle Obama Grew Into Her Power Through Clothing & Style
Before we get started, it’s helpful to know what we’re talking about. Michelle Obama flirts with the space between Magnetic and Polished Style Personalities, so let’s break it down:
What is Magnetic Style Personality?
Magnetic / mag-ˈne-tik / (adjective) : prioritizes a powerful and modern look through the use of strong silhouettes and bold colors. These people are self-assured, charismatic, and ambitious.
They like to dress in a manner that communicates strength and confidence. The overall look gravitates toward black as a neutral mixed with bold colors and silhouettes.
What is Polished Style Personality?
Polished / pä-lisht / (adjective) : prioritizes quality craftsmanship and subtlety over extreme styles or logos. These people are composed, distinguished, and elegant.
They enjoy quality, luxurious fabrics and monochromatic looks. They pay attention to every last detail of an outfit, making sure each piece complements the look without being overstyled or “trying too hard.”
Michelle Obama’s History Through Her Clothes
The Democratic National Convention was held a couple months ago, and the BU Style team is still talking about how glorious it was to see Michelle Obama stride across that stage in a tailored belted navy suit by the New York City–based brand Monse. Monse is co-created by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Oscar de la Renta, and their work is known for its structured style and twisted lapel detailing. Michelle Obama looked strong, competent, and captivating. In terms of language coined by BU Style personal styling, this felt like a clear encapsulation of a woman growing into her power through the adoption of Magnetic and Polished Style Personalities.
And it has been a stunning evolution from a supportive spouse on the Chicago political scene to commanding a massive DNC audience on her own, independent of her husband. So, let’s take a look at the evolution of Michelle Obama's style from early public life to now.
In her memoir, Becoming, Obama reflects: “As a Black woman, too, I knew I'd be criticized if I was perceived as being showy and high-end, and I'd also be criticized if I was too casual.” It must have been an incredibly difficult balance to strike, hovering somewhere between sophistication and relatability, all without making it look too contrived or self-conscious (because that probably would have been cause for criticism). This encapsulates something interesting––that we look to clothes to decipher hidden meanings from our public figures. Frustratingly, men often have fewer hurdles to jump through, and there are fewer messages to mine in classic men’s attire. “It seemed that my clothes mattered more to people than anything I had to say,” she says in her book, highlighting the double standard.
With the assistance of stylist Meredith Koop, however, Obama began to use clothes as an important piece of what she wanted to say. Her message, evolution, and voice were all wrapped up and supported by the clothes she wore as well as how she wore them. She was not immune to criticisms, however (who can forget the uproar at her bare arms), but we’re going to focus on some of the bigger “wins” of her time in public life.
An early fashion statement for Michelle Obama came in December 2010 when she donned a vintage gown by American designer Norman Norell. This was a “Christmas in Washington” taping, and it was, astoundingly, the first time in American history that a First Lady had worn a vintage dress to a public event. This dress, a gorgeous fitted bodice and silk organza mid-length skirt with tulle, was from the 1950s. This marked a subtle choice by the First Lady to wear a dress from a decade in which women, particularly Black women, were marginalized. “Look how far we’ve come, and look how far we have to go.” The dress was still feminine—a mix of Soft and Classic—but it was also doing something new–: it emphasized our shared history and the importance of sustainability. There was also power in seeing a Black woman wear a dress made in an era when designers were not designing for them.
It seems fitting to also compare styling choices made for different Democratic National Conventions, and in 2012, Michelle Obama wore Laura Smalls, a Black female designer based in New York City. In a signature move, Obama chose the moment to uplift a smaller brand. The dress is Soft, but still has an element of Polished sophistication. The shape engenders openness and trust, while the color adds depth and maturity. This outfit also feels emblematic of the balance that FLOTUS would strike over the two terms.
Things really get interesting when you start looking at Michelle Obama’s outfit choices post-presidency. While in office, the vast majority of Obama’s ensembles were dresses, but post-presidency outfits were mostly pants and top combos. The silhouettes immediately became less classically feminine. They were stronger and more structured. And then, interestingly, over the next couple of years, the outfits started to have different and more playful elements: sequins, bold colors, metallics, monochrome, all velvet, and even all leather, indicating a shift toward Magnetic meets Polished. The Elie Saab suit worn in 2019 is a great example of the start of this evolution. It’s bold, structured, plays with color, and feels joyful and expressive. In a way that we never saw while in the White House.
Then, in 2019 and 2020, we started seeing even more of an evolution in the way that Michelle Obama presented herself. Much has also been written about the evolution of her hairstyle. While judgment around Black hairstyles has lessened, some school and company dress codes are still framed to shame those with natural hair, and, of course, prejudice still exists. Once President Obama left office, Michelle Obama embraced braids inspired by 90’s trends and opted for a more protective style for her hair. While this seems reflective of cultural self-expression and a need for personal change, it’s also just a functional one—protective styles prevent breakage in the long run and keep hair safe from hot and cold weather. And, ultimately, hair is just hair.
Around the same time, Michelle Obama’s styling also became even more bold, sprinkling in more Creative to her Magnetic and Polished mix. More joyful, and unencumbered by what others have to say about her. Her styling also became more contemporary and youthful. (Frankly, she looks happier, too.) Great looks from this era include the all-leather suit from Sergio Hudson, another all-leather ensemble by Palmer Harding, a Canadian tuxedo by Ganni, and a neon yellow pantsuit with pants that flared widely at the bottom. It feels like watching a woman who is no longer dressing to please others. But is instead dressing to please herself. And how glorious that is. This is a goal we at BU Style see women set as they explore what it would look like to truly wear who they are and not what they think the world expects them to be.
Regarding sustainability, some of Michelle Obama’s more casual looks from circa 2012 came from Zara or J Crew. We know now that Zara, in particular, is one of the world’s top offenders in fast fashion, both environmentally and socially, despite positioning itself as a premium brand. However, let’s put context around the Zara of 2012 and earlier when they adhered less to the fast fashion model. Also, on a macro scale, we didn’t have as much information and focus on the dangers of particular retail practices back then. So, while it’s easy to say today that it would be preferable if Michelle Obama could have used her wealth and power to lift up smaller and more independent brands, Zara at the time was nowhere near as problematic as it is today (or at least we weren’t as exposed to it).
Furthermore, it was revolutionary that a First Lady would be willing to “be like the rest of us” and wear shoes and dresses plucked from the mall. Michelle Obama was relatable and not so dissimilar from the rest of us. This was seen in her wardrobe choices and the causes with which she focused her First Lady initiatives.
And all of this takes us to the 2024 DNC. Watching Michelle Obama walk onto the stage and light up the room was electrifying. There is irony, obviously, that at the beginning of her public life, Michelle Obama was frustrated that people seemed more interested in her clothes than what she actually had to say. People were quick to find meaning in her clothes but also weren’t really listening. And so, over the course of the last twenty years, she has consciously used clothes to build trust and rapport with the American public, leaning into Relaxed and Soft style personalities to bring us into her arms so that by 2024, she has fully come into her power and confidence through Magnetic meets Creative and Polished styling.
And now? Well, America is hanging on every word.
Note: Regrettably, Monse (of the incredible suit Michelle Obama wore at the DNC) has decided to do a collaboration with Shein. This is disappointing news, as, of course, Shein is one of the top offenders regarding negative environmental and social impacts of fashion brands.